WHY BOTHER making pizzas if I can buy them so readily?' I hear you say. True, but so far I haven't come across any commercial pizzas resembling the flavour of authentic home made traditional pizzas with real bread dough.

Armenians claim pizza as their own. The Greeks have known it for a long time. In Southern France it was called 'pissaladiere'. But it is the Italians who kept the tradition alive and promoted it so well. Despite its extraordinary fame, pizza is a very late introduction to international cuisine.

In the recipe section I give quantities but, as with all traditional cooking, avoid being 'clinical'. There is a lot of flexibility. Ingredients are increased or decreased, and even changed, to reflect availability and changing preferences.

For a modern pizza, experiment with any of your favourite ingredients but do not overdo it. The fewer the flavours, the better.

Wood fired ovens, very fashionable these days, were used traditionally for pizzas. Even though I teach how to build these ovens I do not hesitate to say that with proper trays you can make superb pizzas in domestic ovens. But if you wish to emulate the traditional ovens consider placing unglazed ceramic tiles in the oven before it is turned on. Heat the oven for at least 30 minutes before placing the pizzas directly onto the tiles. Choose heavy tiles; they are less resistant to thermal shock but the extra density makes them absorb and release the heat quickly - which is a must for good pizzas.

There is no need for special ingredients, such as bread improvers, in the preparation of the dough. The Italians managed without them quite well for many years and so can we. Ordinary bread-making flour, yeast or the traditional sour dough leaven, salt and water is all you need.

Thin tin black trays, which absorb and store heat quickly, are normally the best for pizzas. The tin together with the thinness allow for the very important quick heat penetration.

4 cups unbleached bread flour

1 3/4 cups water (approximately)

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon yeast (or 1 cup of leaven for sour dough)

Mix flour, yeast and salt in a suitable bowl. Add the water gradually and mix with a strong spoon. Increase or decrease the water according to desired dough consistency. Knead the dough, cover it and let it rise until double in size. Divide the dough into 3 or 4 pieces (about the size of a tennis ball). Shape the pieces into balls, place them on a floured board, cover them and let them rest for a few minutes.

Roll out the pieces on a floured board to a thickness of about 5mm and place them onto greased pizza trays. Cover them and let them rest for a few minutes before adding the toppings. Or, add the toppings first and let them rest after. Longer rising will not adversely affect the pizzas.

Notes: Foregoing the kneading will still produce very good pizzas.

400 g peeled tin tomatoes or the equivalent fresh tomatoes

2 tablespoon olive oil

1 dried bay leaf

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon salt

Place ingredients in fry pan and cook to desired consistency mashing the tomatoes with a fork as they cook.

Other flavouring ingredients to consider are onion and/or garlic (fried), basil, ground pepper etc.

Mix ingredients. As the garlic tends to sit at the bottom stir the sauce while using it or use a teaspoon so that some garlic is taken with each serve.

The quantities of topping ingredients - when given - are only a guide. Increase or decrease to taste but always bear in mind the traditional practices. Do not go overboard with the ingredients and the flavours. Aim for a tasty pizza with as few flavours as possible.

The ingredients are listed in the order of use but even this is not a strict rule.

The oregano used is dried. Add salt to taste.

mozzarella cheese - 'as much as your heart desires,' Mary advises.

brush base sparingly with garlic sauce

(My creation based on Cypriot practices)

small cubes of halloumi cheese (spread spaciously to allow room for the melting cheese)

Halloumi cheese is available in most continental delicatessens

Bake pizzas in preheated oven at its highest setting (255°C). For a good pizza, the baking will take 15 minutes and often longer.

For electric ovens the bottom shelf is more suitable while for gas ovens the top shelf is more appropriate.